Skylight Replacement During Reroof — Options, Low-E Glass, Curb/Flashing & Timing
Reroof projects are the best moment to address skylights — the roof is open, flashing is accessible, and warranties can be aligned in a single cycle. This guide compares fixed vs vented units, explains Low-E glass packages, clarifies curb and flashing details, and gives objective criteria for when to replace a skylight together with the roof. It’s written for hot-humid, wind-rain coastal climates like Southeast Louisiana and the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
Related reading: scope structure and line items in the Roof Estimate Decoder, statewide cost context in Roof Replacement Cost in Louisiana (2025), and storm workflows in Storm Damage Roof Restoration.
Before you compare glass and flashing, decide how the unit should behave. In hot-humid zones, ventilation strategy and water management matter more than in mild climates.
Fixed skylights — clean, sealed, light in / water out
Fixed units are sealed for light only — no operable sash. They deliver the most reliable weather seal, the quietest performance in wind-driven rain, and the lowest upkeep. In coastal conditions, they are the default for hallways, stairwells, and spaces where cross-breeze isn’t critical.
If the goal is daylight without airflow, fixed units pair well with high-selectivity Low-E glass to cut heat gain in summer.
Vented skylights — airflow on demand
Vented units open for air changes — helpful in bathrooms, kitchens, or bonus rooms. Choose manual or electric operators; rain sensors are recommended in pop-up storm areas. Expect more moving parts, more seals, and slightly higher noise in heavy rain than fixed units.
If you often rely on AC and humidity control, confirm that ventilation from the skylight won’t fight your HVAC plan.
Low-E glazing — heat, glare & UV control
Glass choice drives comfort more than many expect. Low-E coatings selectively reflect IR (heat) while allowing visible light in. For skylights, pick a package that balances daylighting with solar heat gain in a high-angle roof application.
- Solar heat control: Lower SHGC helps during long, hot summers. Pair with argon fill when available.
- Visible light: Keep transmission high enough to justify the opening — too dark defeats the point.
- UV: Laminated Low-E cuts UV and reduces fading. Laminated glass also adds security and quieter rain sound.
Want a quick primer before you price options? Review how we compare roof packages side by side in the Estimate Decoder.
Curb height, pitch & flashing sets
Skylights succeed or fail at the curb and flashing — not the glass. In coastal storms, water and uplift concentrate at edges. The reroof window is when these details can be built correctly without patchwork.
- Curb height: Follow manufacturer minimums by pitch and materials. In hot-humid climates with sheet rain, a taller curb improves splash resistance.
- Pitch: Many flashing kits require a minimum slope. Low-slope or flat roofs often need special curbs and membrane integration beyond shingle kits.
- Step + head flashing: Proper step flashing along the sides and an oversized head flashing at the top shed water down the course lines.
- Underlayment integration: Self-adhered membranes at the curb and saddle zones, with synthetic underlayment transitions — important for wind-driven rain.
- Counter-flashing: On masonry or wall tie-ins, use true counter-flashing rather than sealant-only solutions.
If gutters routinely overflow near the skylight eave, coordinate roof edges with seamless gutters to keep sheets of water away from curb zones.
When to replace during a reroof
Because flashing is rebuilt at tear-off, the best-value moment to replace a skylight is during the reroof — not months later. Use these objective triggers:
- Age alignment: If the skylight is within ~25–30% of the roof’s age, replace now to align warranties and avoid repeating labor.
- Seal history: Any fogging between panes or recurring condensation stains suggests the IGU seals are aging — replacing at reroof prevents callbacks.
- Flashing format mismatch: If existing flashing won’t match the new roof system (pitch change, material change, or sealed-deck upgrades), replace the unit and flash properly once.
- Damage or deformation: Warped frames, cracked acrylic (on older domes), or soft curb wood — replace with a new unit and new curb.
- Function change: Switching from vented to fixed (or vice versa) is far cleaner when the deck is open.
If you’re here after a storm event, skim our storm restoration guide and book a documented checkup using the free storm roof inspection page.
Cost drivers & what affects price
Skylight work rarely prices as a stand-alone “per unit” number — it’s part of the reroof scope. Use this checklist to understand movement in totals:
- Unit choice: Fixed vs vented, standard vs laminated or impact glass, manual vs electric openers.
- Curb package: Factory curb vs field-built curb; added membrane work on low-slope tie-ins.
- Flashing kit & pitch: Kits vary by material and slope; low-slope details take more time.
- Interior finish: Drywall returns or trim adjustments around the light well.
- Access & height: Two-story, steep slopes, or tight approaches add safety/time.
For broader roof budget context, see Roof Replacement Cost in Louisiana (2025) and how we format proposals in the Estimate Decoder.
Common mistakes to avoid
Small errors with skylights become big leaks in coastal rain. Keep an eye out for these during planning — your reroof is the perfect time to correct them.
- Reusing old flashing: Old metal often doesn’t match new shingle thicknesses, pitches, or underlayment methods.
- Undersized curb on low slopes: Splashback and capillary action overwhelm short curbs in cloudbursts.
- Sealant-only “repairs”: Sealants age fast in sun and humidity — build mechanical flashings instead.
- Skipping peel-and-stick: At curb transitions and saddles, a self-adhered membrane buys priceless storm margin.
- No head diverter where needed: Wide upstream catchments may require a discreet diverter above the head flashing.
Need examples of how we document details for approvals? See the structure we use in the Estimate Decoder.
Our process — from measure to dry-in
Here’s how a skylight replacement folds into a reroof so you understand timing and sequence.
- Measure & options: We verify opening size, curb plan, roof pitch, and interior finish needs; discuss fixed vs vented and glass choices.
- Tear-off & deck prep: Old materials off; deck inspected; sealed-deck or peel-and-stick zones laid out near the curb area.
- Curb & flashing: Factory or field-built curb installed to height; step and head flashing integrated with underlayment by course.
- Unit set & dry-in: Skylight placed, fastened per spec, and dry-in completed so the opening is protected overnight.
- Shingle courses & diverter (as needed): Water path shaped; ridge/soffit vent balance verified.
- Interior finish: Trim or drywall returns completed; glass cleaned; operation tested (if vented).
If you’re planning after a storm, start with a documented visit — book a free storm roof inspection, then we align scope and approvals. When you’re ready for pricing without insurance, use the Free Estimate form.
FAQ — skylights & reroof
Do I have to replace a skylight when I replace the roof?
No — but it’s usually the best time. If the unit is older, shows seal wear, or its flashing won’t match the new roof method, replacing now prevents rework later.
Which is better for rain noise — fixed or vented?
Fixed units are typically quieter and more watertight. Laminated glass further softens rain sound.
What Low-E is best for a skylight?
Choose a Low-E that lowers SHGC without dimming the space too much. Laminated Low-E adds UV and noise benefits.
Can a skylight work on a low-slope roof?
Yes — but details change. You may need a taller curb, membrane integration, and different flashing kits than standard shingle roofs.
Ready to plan skylight replacement with your reroof? We’ll measure the opening, confirm curb and flashing, and price fixed vs vented and Low-E packages side by side — all aligned to one roof warranty cycle. Call (985) 643-6611 or (504) 833-1835, or email info@southernhomeimprovement.com to schedule a convenient on-site visit.
