Is a kick-out flashing required on every roof?

It’s essential wherever step flashing terminates into a wall at the gutter entry; without it, water often washes the facade.

Will a 6″ gutter fix this without a diverter?

If the leak path is the joint itself, upsizing the gutter alone won’t cure it. The corner needs a properly formed and integrated diverter.

Can you install it without removing siding?

Usually a small removal (1–2 courses/pieces) and partial access to the drip edge are required to integrate metal shingle-style.

Which metal is best for a kick-out?

Painted aluminum or steel matched to accessories; we size height and projection to the stream and gutter mouth.

Does a proper kick-out affect warranties?

A correct joint supports manufacturer water-management requirements; caulk-only patches often lead to warranty denials.

Kick-Out Flashing in Louisiana — Stop Roof-to-Wall Leaks

When wind-driven rain hits a roof-to-wall joint, water can travel behind the siding, stain the facade, and rot the sheathing. A properly sized and integrated kick-out flashing — the small metal diverter at the end of step flashing — captures the last stream and guides it into the gutter instead of down the wall. Southern Home Improvement Center (SHIC) repairs this joint across Southeast Louisiana with tidy metalwork, documented hidden layers, and correct housewrap and flashing sequencing for long-term performance.

What a Kick-Out Flashing Does

A kick-out flashing is a compact formed pocket installed where step flashing terminates into a vertical wall at the gutter entry. Its job is to redirect water into the trough so it can’t wash the facade or slip behind cladding. Correct kick-out size and placement are essential: the diverter must reach the water stream, tuck under the last step flashing, and integrate with the roof perimeter flashing (drip edge or gutter apron) so all laps go with the water, not against it. On tall roof planes and valley bursts, this small part prevents big repairs.

Where capacity or downspout layout also plays a role, our Seamless Gutters team coordinates entry geometry, slope, and outlet location in the same visit.

Field Symptoms & Quick Checks

Before we touch metal, we confirm the path of water. These signs point to a missing, undersized, or poorly integrated diverter:

Dirty “fan” streaks below the roof-to-wall joint near the gutter mouth after storms.
Peeling paint or softened fascia — classic fascia rot from gutters when the stream bypasses the trough.
Soffit staining and drip marks on the first siding courses (typical wind-driven rain siding symptoms).
Indoors: a musty ceiling corner or a drywall stain after heavy rain.
From the roof: no visible pocket at the last step flashing; water shoots past the entry.

If this sounds familiar, book Siding Repair & Leak Diagnostics. We open only what’s needed and photo-document hidden layers.

DIY Hose Test — Confirm the Leak Path

When it’s safe to do so, a controlled hose test helps confirm the source. If you’re unsure or the roof is steep, skip this and call us.

Set a gentle stream (no jet). Wet shingles above the corner for 2–3 minutes — not the wall.
Move the stream slowly toward the roof-to-wall corner. Watch the gutter entry and the wall below.
If water spills past the mouth or tracks the wall, the joint likely needs a diverter flashing install and edge-metal integration.
Stop immediately if water approaches electrical fixtures. Safety first.

Send us two photos — the roof-to-wall corner and the gutter entry — via the contact form. We’ll confirm next steps.

Our Repair Method (Shingle-Style Integration)

Stopping leaks is about sequencing. We rebuild the drainage plane so gravity does the work, and we document hidden layers before closing the wall:

Selective removal — 1–2 courses of siding/trim for access; lift a bit of soffit or gutter entry only if needed.
Substrate & WRB restoration — replace damaged sheathing locally; restore WRB (housewrap) and tapes, overlapped shingle-style.
Form & size the diverter — painted aluminum or steel, color-matched; height/projection sized to intercept the stream.
Integration under metals — tuck under the last step flashing and under the drip edge/gutter apron; laps run with the water path and onto the restored WRB below.
Reassembly & finish — reset siding with correct clearances to roofing/gutters; seal exposed cut ends. Sealant complements shaped metal, never replaces it.
Photo documentation — you keep pictures of hidden layers for records or insurance.

Sizing & Placement Basics

There’s no one-size-fits-all diverter. We consider shingle exposure, gutter setback, fascia thickness, and the incoming water angle from valleys. As a rule of thumb, the diverter’s pocket should project far enough to enter the gutter stream and stand tall enough to block wall-washing during peak flow. We finalize dimensions on site and test the stream direction before closing the wall.

Gutters & Edge Metals — 6″ vs. 7″, Drip Edge vs. Gutter Apron

The diverter is part of a system. We evaluate the full path from shingles to downspout so the joint won’t regress after the next storm:

Capacity — many Gulf Coast roofs benefit from 6″ seamless gutters; in select cases 7″ improve margin at long valleys and tall planes.
Edge control — gutter apron vs drip edge often comes up. These edge metals carry the shingle edge into the trough; the kick-out is the directional pocket that turns water at the corner so it cannot wash the siding.
Hardware — spacing, slope, and the first downspout tie-in at valley matter. A perfect diverter won’t help a sagging or short-pitched trough.

Need gutter work at the same corner? See Seamless Gutters — we can handle metal and drainage in one appointment.

Siding Notes — Vinyl vs. Hardie

Both claddings benefit from a correct diverter, but reassembly details differ by material and exposure.

Vinyl hangs and drains, yet at the roof-to-wall corner the missing diverter sends water behind laps. We preserve starter height, maintain roof clearances, and tie the joint back into the WRB. Explore Storm-Resistant Vinyl Siding.
Hardie (fiber-cement) requires precise gaps to roofing and edge metals plus clean horizontal joint protection. We follow manufacturer tolerances closely — see Fiber-Cement / Hardie.

Where geometry splashes the wall relentlessly, a thin vented starter and rainscreen at roof-wall can help the WRB dry faster. We’ll advise if that adds value on your elevation.

Homeowner Tools — Calculators & Checklists

Use these quick tools for planning. They’re ballpark aids; we’ll confirm details on site.

Rainflow & Gutter Entry Estimator

Estimate peak runoff at a single corner to understand why the diverter and entry geometry matter. Enter the roof area feeding this corner and a storm intensity.

Roof area to this corner (ft²)

Rain intensity (in/hr)

Estimated flow: — gpm (gallons per minute)

Rule of thumb: higher corner flow makes a well-sized kick-out and a clean gutter entry more critical. We’ll size components on site.

Kick-Out Size Helper (Advisory)

Get a starting range for diverter height and projection. Final sizing happens in the field.

Gutter setback from shingle edge (in)

Shingle exposure (in)

Advisory projection: — in

Advisory height: — in

These are starting ranges to catch the stream and block wall-washing. We’ll verify with on-site fit and a dry flow check.

Printable Corner Checklist (PDF-friendly)

Photos: roof-to-wall corner (2 angles), gutter entry, soffit underside.
Notes: visible stains, paint peeling, soffit drips, time after rain.
Roof: shingle type and age (if known), valley nearby (yes/no).
Gutter: size (5″/6″), hanger spacing (rough), downspout location.
Interior: any corner stains or odor after storms.

Bring this to your estimate — we’ll add to the job record.

Avoiding Common Installer Mistakes

A bad diverter hides the problem without fixing it. We avoid the pitfalls that cause repeat leaks:

Undersized pockets that never reach the stream or get buried under the edge metal.
Reverse laps that dump water behind WRB or the last step flashing.
“Caulk instead of metal” — blobs of sealant fail through heat/cold cycles.
Not tucked under step flashing — stuck on top so water still bypasses the entry.
Apron conflicts — kinked gutter apron leaving gaps at the fascia.

At hand-off, we run a dry flow check so you can watch the stream choose the gutter every time.

Before We Arrive — Quick Prep & Temporary Measures

Help us move faster on estimate day and limit damage while you wait:

Clear the corner: move grills, planters, and furniture 6–8 ft away from the wall.
Avoid heavy caulk “patches”: they hide the path we need to see and rarely hold.
Temporary defense: if a storm is imminent, place a short tarp or trim coil loosely to turn drips outward. Do not pry metals or seal over weep paths.
Interior protection: cover the inside corner with plastic if a stain is active.

If you suspect broader wall moisture, combine this visit with Leak Diagnostics so we can capture all issues in one proposal.

Scope, Line-Item Pricing & Scheduling

Every roof-to-wall corner is unique, so our proposal shows the leak path, the metalwork, and the siding steps to close the wall correctly. A typical scope includes:

Selective removal/reinstall of 1–2 siding courses and trims.
Local sheathing repair and WRB restoration with compatible tapes.
Fabrication/installation of a sized diverter integrated under step flashing and drip edge/apron.
Gutter tune-up at the entry (slope, hangers, outlet alignment).
Photo documentation of hidden layers for your records or insurer.

If inspection reveals additional issues beyond the corner, we’ll show options and explain cost/benefit before work starts. To schedule, call Baton Rouge (225) 766-4244 or Northshore (985) 643-6611, or use the contact form.

Local Service & Contacts

We handle kick-out flashing in Greater Baton Rouge, the Northshore, New Orleans/Jefferson, and along the Mississippi Gulf Coast. If your neighborhood isn’t listed, check our Service Area.

Baton Rouge — Near LSU, Garden District, Southdowns, St. George, Highland Corridor, Prairieville/Dutchtown. Call (225) 766-4244.
Northshore — Slidell, Mandeville, Covington, Lacombe, Pearl River. Call (985) 643-6611.
New Orleans/Jefferson — Metairie, Kenner, Harahan, River Ridge, New Orleans East. Toll-free (800) 880-8990.

Glossary

Kick-out (diverter) flashing — formed metal pocket that turns water from the roof-to-wall corner into the gutter.

Step flashing — overlapping L-shaped pieces that carry water along the shingle-to-wall intersection.

Drip edge / Gutter apron — edge metals that carry the shingle edge into the trough and protect the fascia.

WRB (housewrap) — water-resistive barrier behind siding that sheds water and supports drying.

FAQ

Is a kick-out flashing required on every roof? It’s essential wherever step flashing terminates into a wall at the gutter entry; without it, water often washes the facade.
Will a 6″ gutter fix this without a diverter? If the leak path is the joint itself, upsizing the gutter alone won’t cure it. The corner needs a properly formed and integrated diverter.
Can you install it without removing siding? Usually a small removal (1–2 courses/pieces) and partial access to the drip edge are required to integrate metal shingle-style.
Which metal is best? Painted aluminum or steel matched to accessories; we size height and projection to the stream and gutter mouth.
Does this affect warranties? A correct joint supports manufacturer water-management requirements; caulk-only patches often lead to warranty denials.

Related reading: Siding Repair & Leak Diagnostics and Seamless Gutters.

Get a Free Estimate

Ready to stop that roof-to-wall leak the right way? Call Baton Rouge (225) 766-4244 or Northshore/Slidell (985) 643-6611, or send a note through the contact form. We’ll document the hidden layers and provide a clear line-item proposal.