9 Reroof Mistakes That Cost You Insurance Discounts — An Anti-Checklist for the Gulf Coast
Who this is for. Homeowners in Southeast Louisiana and along the Mississippi Gulf Coast who plan to replace a roof and want insurers to recognize the work with wind-mitigation or FORTIFIED™ Roof credits. This guide is a plain-English anti-checklist — nine mistakes we see over and over again that cause discounts to be reduced, delayed, or denied. For each mistake you’ll get the why, the quick field test, how to fix it, and exactly what photos and documents to capture so your packet clears underwriting.
If you’re just starting to compare contractors, skim our core hub Roof Replacement & Installation. Curious how we keep the process simple when you’re aiming for credits? Read FORTIFIED™ Without the Noise.
Each section below explains the mistake and gives an easy way to verify the fix while crews are still on site. Share this page with your project lead — it doubles as a punchlist for the final walk-through.
1) Unbalanced attic ventilation
Insurers and evaluators don’t award credits for “pretty shingles.” They credit assemblies that reduce risk. Ventilation is one of those invisible details that change risk in two ways — moisture load and wind-driven rain paths. An attic that exhausts more air than it can take in draws conditioned air (and possibly rain) through the building envelope. Over time that can warp decking, blister shingles, and trigger premature claims — exactly what underwriters are trying to avoid.
Field test. Count soffit vents or measure continuous soffit intake, then compare to the net free area of the ridge vent. Intake should roughly match or exceed exhaust. If the soffits are painted shut or stuffed with insulation, you don’t have real intake.
Fix it. Clear soffits, add baffles, and make sure the ridge vent is a baffled, wind-tested product — not just a slot in the ridge. Aim for a balanced system. If you want a deeper dive into airflow options, compare approaches in Ridge Vent vs Turbine Vent and the fundamentals in Attic Ventilation in Louisiana.
What to photograph. Open soffits with baffles in place, the ridge slot before vent install, product labels for ridge vent, and final ridge with caps. Capture close-ups and wide shots.
2) Mixing exhaust types on one plane
Ridge vent + box vents + a powered fan on the same slope sounds like “extra ventilation,” but it is not. Mixed exhaust short-circuits airflow — one device robs air from another — and can create negative pressure that pulls rain into the attic during tropical systems.
Field test. Stand back and look at each plane. If you can see multiple exhaust types on the same field, you have a problem. Ridge plus gable end vents is also risky when winds are quartering the structure.
Fix it. Choose one exhaust method per plane — preferably a baffled ridge vent — and pair it with continuous, unobstructed soffit intake. Remove or permanently block redundant devices so they don’t re-pressurize the attic.
What to photograph. Before/after of devices removed, ridge vent label and installation, soffit openings, and a final wide shot of each plane.
3) No sealed roof deck (SRD)
On the Gulf Coast, wind-driven rain is the enemy. If shingles are lifted or displaced, water reaches the sheathing seams. Without a sealed roof deck, that water passes into the attic through panel gaps and nail penetrations — the classic post-storm staining pattern on drywall. Many discount programs and FORTIFIED™ Roof specifically look for SRD because it limits interior losses even when coverings are compromised.
Field test. Ask: “What is our SRD method on this deck?” On OSB or plywood, two common approaches are (1) seam taping plus underlayment, or (2) fully adhered membrane. Felt alone is not an SRD.
Fix it. Match the method to the deck and manufacturer requirements. Tape should be rolled, tight to seams; membranes need correct laps and substrate prep. If your project aims at FORTIFIED designation, confirm the method with the evaluator before dry-in. For a simple walkthrough of designations and documentation, see Certified FORTIFIED™ Installation — LA & MS.
What to photograph. Clean, rolled tape at seams (close-ups with measurement), membrane labels and lap measurements, and the entire deck before shingles go on.
4) Weak edges at eaves and rakes
Edges are where wind and water start trouble. Under-sized drip edge, too-sparse fasteners, or skipped kick-outs let water dive behind the system and soak sheathing or siding. In high winds, poor edge securement invites uplift and shingle loss.
Field test. Measure the vertical and horizontal leg of the edge metal. Confirm fastener spacing and that the metal is under the underlayment at rakes and over the underlayment at eaves — or per the specific standard you’re building to. Look for kick-out flashing at roof-to-wall transitions that spit water into the gutter instead of behind siding.
Fix it. Use code-compliant (or better) edge metal, dense fastener patterns, and correct layering. Add kick-outs anywhere a roof drains against a wall or chimney shoulder.
What to photograph. Edge metal labels and dimensions, fastener spacing with a tape measure in frame, under/over-lap sequences at eaves and rakes, and each kick-out before cladding hides it.
5) Wrong fastening — nail type, placement, or pressure
Underwriters want proof that shingles are attached as designed. On architectural shingles with a wide nailing zone (e.g., HP42®-style zones), nails that ride high, are under-driven, or over-driven compromise wind performance. Mixed shank types or short nails can also fail uplift tests.
Field test. Pull a handful of shingles during install and inspect the line: are nails centered in the zone, heads flush (not sunk), and length correct for deck + underlayment stack? Look for consistent compressor pressure — not blowing through in the afternoon heat.
Fix it. Set compressors appropriately, use manufacturer-approved nails, and spot-check courses as the crew moves. Increase supervision at hips, rakes, and areas with cut shingles where the zone narrows.
What to photograph. A few in-progress shots of nail placement with the nailing zone visible, compressor gauge settings, and a final close-up of typical courses.
6) Sloppy underlayment laps and valley details
Underlayment is your secondary weather barrier. When laps are too short, the bond is weak, or valleys aren’t layered correctly, water finds a path as soon as wind pushes it uphill. Valleys and transitions are where insurers expect leaks — they are also where many photo logs are thinnest.
Field test. Ask for the lap spec (inches) and measure a few locations. In valleys, confirm the chosen method (open metal, closed-cut, woven, or membrane-lined) and verify that the sequence directs water away from cut edges.
Fix it. Follow the underlayment manufacturer, shingle manufacturer, and the standard you’re targeting (FORTIFIED or code). Use metal valley liners or membranes appropriate to your design wind and rain exposure. Keep fastener lines out of the flow path.
What to photograph. Laps with a tape showing measurements, valley build-up layer by layer, and final valley shots before shingles cover everything.
7) Flashing misses — roof-to-wall, chimneys, and kick-outs
Most denied discounts trace to water-management risks — especially at intersections. We see three chronic misses: (1) no kick-out flashing where a roof hits a vertical wall, (2) surface-caulked chimney saddles instead of proper step + counter-flashing, and (3) siding or stucco installed down over the step flashing, trapping water.
Field test. Walk every roof-to-wall line. Do you see step flashing interlaced with shingle courses? Is there a kick-out into the gutter at the bottom? At chimneys, is there true counter-flashing cut into the masonry — not just caulk?
Fix it. Install step flashing with every course; add kick-outs; use counter-flashing, saddles, and crickets that shed water at chimneys and wide penetrations. Coordinate with the siding crew so cladding terminates correctly with clearance.
What to photograph. Each stage of step flashing, the kick-out before siding, chimney counter-flashing detail, and final clearances at walls, windows, and skylights. For emergencies between trades or after a storm, keep this handy: Emergency Roof Tarping & Dry-In.
8) No proof — thin photo log and missing evaluator
Insurers and programs don’t award discounts for promises. They need evidence. A high-quality roof without a high-quality photo log often fails to earn credits. If you plan to pursue an official FORTIFIED™ Roof designation, you also need a third-party evaluator to verify key steps — and the timing matters around standard updates.
Field test. Before the job starts, ask for the shot list and who is responsible for the log (your contractor, you, or both). Confirm that close-ups and wide shots will be captured for every phase: deck fastening, SRD, edges, valleys, penetrations, vents, and final QA. If certifying, schedule the evaluator so no critical step is missed.
Fix it. Use a shared folder with subfolders by phase; add a tape measure in lap photos; include product labels and serials. Keep time stamps on. If you’re targeting designation, coordinate timelines with an experienced evaluator. If you need a refresher on why timing matters each fall, read our Fall 2025 Deadlines & Playbook.
What to photograph. Everything. But specifically — the SRD method, edge securement, valley build-up, flashing before cladding, ridge vent labels, and the finished roof from street and eaves.
9) Paperwork and sequencing mistakes
Even perfect builds can lose discounts because the paperwork is wrong or the sequence of work creates rework. Classic examples: installing new gutters before reroof (now the drip edge can’t be layered correctly), skipping the carrier’s mitigation form, or submitting after renewal deadlines. In Louisiana, homeowners sometimes confuse FORTIFIED-ready builds with official designations and then discover their insurer requires the certificate for the credit.
Field test. Ask your agent for the current mitigation or FORTIFIED credit form. Put the submission deadline on your calendar. If you intend to apply for grants (e.g., Louisiana Fortify Homes), confirm stacking and documentation rules so you don’t duplicate benefits. You can review basics here: Louisiana Fortify Homes — Grant Basics.
Fix it. Do the roof first, then gutters/guards. Fill out the carrier form completely, attach your photo log, specs, and — if applicable — the FORTIFIED certificate. Submit as soon as the job closes out. If you’re considering certification in the future, build “FORTIFIED-ready” now and keep a complete photo log so you can certify later without opening the system.
What to photograph. Drip edge with gutters after the roof is complete, any specialty components your carrier asks to see, and a final wide shot of each elevation.
What to include in your documentation packet
Below is a quick master list you can paste into your notes app and check off as you collect evidence. This improves your chances of a smooth approval on the first submission.
- Photo log by phase — deck fastening; SRD seams/tape or membrane; eaves/rakes with edge metal and fastener spacing; underlayment laps with measurement in frame; valleys and transitions layer-by-layer; penetrations/boots; ridge slot and ridge vent install; final ridge caps and field; street and eave-level wide shots.
- Product specs — underlayment and membrane data sheets, ridge vent brand/model with wind-driven rain performance, drip edge dimensions, nail type/length, shingle fastening pattern.
- Evaluator documents — if you’re pursuing a FORTIFIED designation, include evaluator sign-off and certificate.
- Carrier form — the specific mitigation or FORTIFIED credit form required by your insurer.
- Receipts and scope of work — line items that show SRD method, edge metal, ridge vent, and flashing upgrades (so the underwriter can map invoice to photos).
Keep digital copies in a single cloud folder and share the link with your agent. Many carriers process cleaner packets faster and with fewer follow-ups.
How to use this anti-checklist during your reroof
Print or save this page. On day one, walk the home with the crew lead and review sections SRD, Edges, Underlayment/Valleys, and Flashing. Mid-install, check nailing and vent balance. Before crews leave, confirm you’ve captured everything in the packet list. If weather interrupts, protect the opening using the steps in Emergency Roof Tarping & Dry-In.
If your goal is a FORTIFIED designation — not just “FORTIFIED-ready” — loop in an evaluator early and double-check standard dates in fall. Our primer on certifications and scheduling lives here: Certified FORTIFIED™ Installation — LA & MS.
Frequently asked quick answers
These are the short versions we answer weekly around New Orleans, the Northshore, Baton Rouge, and the Mississippi coast. For longer explanations and seasonal deadlines, see our Fall 2025 Deadlines & Playbook.
Do I lose a discount if I install gutters before reroof?
You don’t lose a discount automatically, but you create a sequencing problem: gutters hide the drip edge and make it easy to get the layering wrong, which can jeopardize water management and the documentation your carrier expects. Replace the roof first, then hang gutters/guards.
Is SRD required for every discount?
Requirements vary by insurer and program, but sealed roof decks are common criteria because they limit interior damage during wind-driven rain events. Even when not required, SRD is one of the highest-ROI upgrades on the Gulf Coast.
Can I mix ridge and turbine vents if intake is strong?
Not recommended. Different exhaust types on the same plane short-circuit each other and can pull water. Choose one exhaust method per slope and pair it with continuous soffit intake.
How many photos are “enough”?
Think like an underwriter who has never seen your house. Every step that affects wind or water should have a close-up and a wide shot. Include measurements in-frame where laps/spacing matter and labels for specialty products.
Get a discount-ready reroof — no guesswork
If you’re in Southeast Louisiana or on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, we can scope a FORTIFIED-ready roof replacement/installation, capture the right documentation for insurers, and — if you choose — coordinate third-party evaluation for designation. See where we work on our Service Area page, then fill out the form below or call (225) 766-4244 or (985) 643-6611. We’ll give you a clear, no-pressure written proposal that balances curb appeal and Gulf Coast performance.
